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Edinburgh Old Town: Royal Mile, Castle, and Hidden Closes

Edinburgh Old Town is one of the most atmospheric city centres in Europe, a steep tangle of medieval streets running from a castle on a volcanic crag down to a royal palace. Dark stone tenements, hidden closes, and the long spine of the Royal Mile have barely changed in outline for centuries, which is why the Old Town, together with the elegant Georgian New Town, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This guide covers what to see, the history underfoot, and how to make the most of a visit to the old town of Edinburgh, Scotland.

What and where is the Old Town

The Old Town is the oldest part of Edinburgh, built along the ridge that falls away from Edinburgh Castle. For hundreds of years the city was squeezed onto this narrow slope behind its defensive walls, so it grew upward instead of outward, producing some of the tallest buildings in the world at the time. The result is a dense, dramatic quarter of towering tenements, narrow alleys called closes, and sudden flights of stone steps, all within easy walking distance.

The Royal Mile in Edinburgh Old Town lined with tall stone tenement buildings

The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile is the Old Town’s main street, running roughly a mile downhill from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the King’s official residence in Scotland. Along the way it passes St Giles’ Cathedral with its crown spire, the old parliament buildings, and a string of pubs, whisky shops, and museums. Stepping off the main street into the quiet closes on either side is where the Old Town really reveals itself.

Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle crowns the Old Town from its rock and is the most visited attraction in Scotland. Inside you will find the Crown Jewels of Scotland, the Stone of Destiny, the tiny St Margaret’s Chapel, which is the oldest building in the city, and the One O’Clock Gun, fired every day except Sunday. The views over the Old Town and across to the Firth of Forth are worth the climb on their own.

Edinburgh Castle standing on its volcanic rock above the Old Town

Closes, wynds, and the city underground

The narrow passages leading off the Royal Mile are the Old Town’s secret world. These closes and wynds once held whole communities stacked on top of each other, and some have been sealed and preserved underground. Guided tours of places such as the Real Mary King’s Close take you beneath the modern street into rooms left as they were centuries ago, and the Old Town’s reputation for ghost stories grows out of exactly this buried, layered history.

Things to do in the Old Town

  • Walk the full Royal Mile from the castle down to Holyrood.
  • Climb Calton Hill or Arthur’s Seat for the classic view back over the Old Town.
  • Visit the Scotch Whisky Experience or a traditional pub for a dram.
  • Explore the Grassmarket and Victoria Street, the curved, colourful row said to have inspired Diagon Alley.
  • Take a ghost or history walking tour after dark.
The curved, colourful shopfronts of Victoria Street in Edinburgh Old Town

Tips for visiting

The Old Town is compact and best explored on foot, but the streets are steep and cobbled, so wear comfortable shoes and expect some climbs. Book Edinburgh Castle tickets in advance, especially in summer and during the August festivals, when the city is at its busiest. Weather changes quickly, so carry a layer and a waterproof whatever the forecast. For a city built on hills like this, our packing list generator helps you pack light but ready, and lovers of historic old towns will enjoy our guide to San Gimignano in Tuscany.

Frequently asked questions

What is there to do in Edinburgh Old Town?

Walk the Royal Mile, visit Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, explore the hidden closes and the underground tours, and wander Victoria Street and the Grassmarket. Climbing Calton Hill or Arthur’s Seat gives the best views over the Old Town.

How long do you need in the Old Town?

You can walk the Royal Mile in a couple of hours, but a full day lets you add the castle, an underground tour, and the viewpoints. Two days is ideal to enjoy it without rushing and to include the New Town.

Is Edinburgh Old Town walkable?

Yes, it is small and best seen on foot, with everything close together along and around the Royal Mile. Just be ready for steep, cobbled streets and plenty of steps, so wear comfortable shoes.

What is the difference between the Old Town and New Town?

The Old Town is the medieval core around the castle and the Royal Mile, with narrow closes and tall tenements. The New Town, built in the 1700s, is a planned Georgian district of wide streets and squares. Together they form the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Is Edinburgh Castle worth visiting?

Yes. It is the most visited attraction in Scotland and holds the Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, and the city’s oldest building. The views over the Old Town are superb. Book tickets ahead to skip the queues.

When is the best time to visit Edinburgh Old Town?

Late spring and early autumn bring milder weather and fewer crowds. August is lively but packed for the festivals, and December is atmospheric with Christmas markets. Pack a waterproof layer at any time of year.

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